Have you ever seen a manatee? These gentle, slow-moving “sea cows” can grow up to 10 feet long and weigh between 800 and 1,200 pounds. In the U.S., they mostly spend their winters in Florida, and during the summer some migrate north to Alabama, Georgia, and South Carolina. (Many, however, stay in Florida year-round.)

I’ve spotted them solo from time to time in the Indian River—usually just a little nose breaking the surface, or the faint imprint of a tail in the water. A couple of weeks ago, my husband heard that more than 800 manatees were gathered in the shallow waters of Blue Spring Run, just a couple of hours away. So… guess where we went? 🙂

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Admission:
Car with 2–8 people: $6
Car with 1 person: $4
Walking or biking in: $2
Big groups (9+ in a vehicle): $2 per person

This state park gets crowded fast, so if you plan to visit, aim to arrive before 10 a.m., ideally on a weekday. We arrived at 9:30 and only waited behind about seven cars to get in. When we left around 1 p.m., there was already a line of at least 30 cars. There are two parking lots, and both offer easy access to manatee viewing areas.

West Indian manatees were downgraded from endangered to threatened in 2017. Florida Fish and Wildlife estimates there are between 8,350 and 11,730 manatees in the state, with about 55% living on the eastern side and the rest on the western side. Manatees migrate to warmer waters because they have very little body fat and can’t tolerate water temperatures below 68 degrees for long. Blue Spring stays a consistent 72 degrees year-round, making it an ideal winter refuge.

The best place to see the largest groups of manatees is along the Blue Spring Run between the two parking lots. I suspect the area closest to the actual spring may be a bit too warm for them. A boardwalk connects the two lots and offers plenty of spots to pause, look over the water, and watch these incredible creatures. You’ll see manatees lounging, bobbing up for air, checking out other wildlife, and even “frolicking” with one another. It’s a pretty magical experience.

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Near the second parking lot, you’ll find the Thursby House. Visitors can walk through the first floor, which features exhibits and an original-looking kitchen preserved behind glass.

The Thursby family—Lewis, Mary Ann, and their daughter Mary Alice—arrived here from Brooklyn, New York, in 1856 to start a new life. They purchased 133 acres and a three-room log cabin for $400. By the 1870s, they had established a citrus grove and a steamboat landing. They also built the first two floors of their new home atop a Timucuan Indian shell midden, a mound of shells and bones left by the area’s early inhabitants. Constructed from Georgia yellow pine and roofed with hand-split cypress shingles, each floor had four rooms connected by a central hallway.

In 1881, W.W. West established the first railway in Volusia County, connecting the railway from his store in town to the Thursby Wharf steamboat landing about two miles away. Not long after railways arrived, most steamboat operations faded away.

Lewis Thursby died in 1890 at the age of 62—the same year a devastating citrus freeze destroyed much of the family’s crop. His son John moved into the home, while Mary Ann relocated permanently to their second home in Orange City. John pivoted to tourism, adding a kitchen, porch, and a third floor to the house in the early 1900s. The third floor was built to accommodate paying duck and quail hunters. John also fished mullet and catfish from the river and owned 15 rowboats that he rented out on weekends. His sons often rowed visitors around, pointing out the best fishing spots.

John died in 1946, which eventually led to Lewis Thursby’s daughter, Isabelle “Belle” Thursby, returning to the family home after retiring in 1949. She lived there until her death in 1970. The following year, The Forgotten Mermaids, an episode of The Underwater World of Jacques Cousteau, was filmed at Blue Spring. One year later, the State of Florida purchased the land and opened the park to protect the manatees and prevent development.

If you’re in the Orlando area, Blue Spring State Park is only about an hour north of Orlando International Airport. There’s plenty to do beyond watching manatees and touring the house. In winter, you can rent kayaks and paddle the St. Johns River. There are also daily boat tours, hiking trails, campsites, and even cabins for rent. In spring and summer, swimming, snorkeling, and diving in the springs are allowed. Truly a wonderful stop any time of year.

‘til next week, happy exploring!
Kathleen

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