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This week’s journey takes place on Ft. George Island in Jacksonville, Florida. We were in town visiting family over the holiday week while also celebrating a wedding (yay!). Our time there was pretty busy, but we still managed to squeeze in a bit of exploring. We found a couple of great brunch spots, enjoyed a fancy dinner out, and discovered a very intriguing—and complicated—historical site. We’ll start there.

JACKSONVILLE, FL

Kingsley Plantation

Kingsley Plantation sits on 60 acres within the Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve. Entry is free, and you can explore the kitchen, barn, slave cabins, and gardens from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday. If you’d like to tour the Main House, check with the Visitor Center to see when the next guided tour is available.

We didn’t get a chance to tour the Main House, but there was still plenty to explore. Interpretive signs throughout the property provide an overview of the people who lived and worked there. The grounds are very pretty, and it would be a lovely place to bring a picnic on a nice day.

Kingsley Plantation House

Barn

Interior of Barn

Visitor Center

A Brief History of the Kingsleys

English-born Zephaniah Kingsley (1765–1843) purchased land here in 1814 and eventually owned more than 32,000 acres in northern Florida. He arrived with his three children and his wife, Anna Madgigine Jai (1793-1870), who was born a princess in Senegal, West Africa. She was captured and sold into slavery and later purchased by Kingsley in Cuba. They were married in an African ceremony before arriving in Florida.

Although Kingsley considered himself a planter, he was also an active slave trader, owning and captaining slave ships. Even so, he was often described as a “liberal” slave owner. His plantation operated under a task system, meaning each enslaved person had specific duties to complete, and once finished, the rest of the day was their own. While this may sound reasonable on the surface, those tasks often took 10–14 hours per day. About 60 enslaved people produced citrus, Sea Island cotton, sugar cane, and corn on the plantation—along with growing all the food needed to feed everyone living there.

Enslaved cooks made all the meals in this small plantation kitchen using this fireplace.

This floor is nearly 200 years old. It is made of Tabby, an oyster shell concrete. Fire resistant and durable it was perfect for the kitchen, prep and storage rooms.

View of Fort George River

Kingsley continued acquiring land, ultimately owning four plantations in Florida and enslaving more than 200 people. He had four common-law wives, all of African descent, but Anna was considered his principal wife. What makes her especially fascinating is that she managed the Kingsley Plantation and, after being freed by Kingsley in 1811, acquired land and enslaved people of her own.

Florida remained under Spanish rule until 1821, when it came under U.S. control and laws surrounding mixed-race children and slavery changed dramatically. Under Spanish rule, enslaved people were granted limited autonomy, including the ability to own guns, learn to read, and earn money during personal time. Freed Black and mixed-race individuals were also afforded certain rights. Under U.S. rule, slave laws became far harsher, with severe punishments and restrictions on movement, including the requirement to carry papers when traveling. Interracial marriage was also prohibited—an obvious problem for Kingsley, his wives and his children.

Due to increasing conflicts with U.S. laws, Kingsley relocated in 1837 to what is now the Dominican Republic (then part of Haiti), bringing Anna, his family, and 50 enslaved people with him. After Kingsley’s death, Anna returned to the United States and successfully fought for her inheritance—a remarkable achievement for the time.

25 Slave Houses made of Tabby (oyster shell concrete) remain on the site in a semi-circle - the one in the forefront is partially restored.

There is much more depth to the history here than I could possibly cover, and this visit only scratched the surface of what there is to learn.

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Getting There: St. John’s River Ferry

Looking for a scenic way to cross the river? This short ferry ride connects Mayport Village and Ft. George Island. It costs $7 per car each way, or $1 per person if you’re walking or biking. The ferry departs every half hour from Mayport Village between 6:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m., with return trips from Ft. George Island on the quarter and three-quarter hour from 6:15 a.m. to 7:15 p.m.

St. John’s River Ferry Mayport Entrance

View from Ferry

Dining around Jacksonville

RH Rooftop Brunch

There are plenty of great restaurants in the area. Here are a few of our new favorites—on the pricier side, but worth it.

RH Rooftop Restaurant, Jacksonville The atmosphere is gorgeous and upscale. Reservations are a must. - Visit

Jax Beach Brunch Haus, Jacksonville Beach A large coffee and brunch menu. It’s very popular, so expect crowds and a wait for seating. - Visit

Refinery, Jacksonville Beach Great views, especially if you arrive before nightfall. Reservations are a must during peak seasons. - Visit

RH Rooftop Dining Room Atmosphere

Trips like this remind me why I love traveling the way we do.

Even when a visit is centered around family and celebrations, there’s almost always time to wander just a little—and that’s often where the most memorable moments happen.

Ft. George Island surprised me. It was peaceful and beautiful, but it also asked us to slow down and sit with a history that isn’t simple or comfortable. Pair that with ferry rides, good meals, and time with people we love, and it felt like one of those trips that stays with you longer than expected. As always, I’m grateful for the chance to explore a place just beyond the surface.

So what’s next? We’ve been uncovering some neat, off-the-path spots along Central Florida’s east coast, and I’m excited to share them with you

‘til next week, happy exploring!
Kathleen

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